MOSAIC STEPPING STONES Debbie's way!

Not really such a big thing in the uk YET but I'm sure it will be bigger!

Just in case anybody thinks this looks familiar - Debbie put it up on Heart Of Stained Glass but she very generously volunteered it for here too! Heck I aint proud!

 
Just a few ideas that can be used for molds-margarine containers, tupperware, pails, wood (make sure smooth & seal), make sure there arer no lines or ridges and cement can pop out freely. You can use just about anything as long as cement will pop out freely, any grooves, marks, or indentations will show in the cement. Stay away from Cast Iron, has no give at all. If using metal it might help to give a coat of shellac-I have never tried myself but people who have used cake pans with a good release agent. To get an idea of how much cement you will need-add water to get measurement. Professional molds are 1 1/2" deep, bench molds go 3".
1)For the top & bottom layers of my stones I use either Mortar (no stone) or Sand Mix (teeny pebbles). I personally prefer Mortar for 1st layer as no pebbles or stones when trying to rub cement between glass pieces-gives a smoother top 2)For strength I use Cement Mix (stones) for middle layer. There are different things available (fibres, weldbond etc.) that can be mixed with cement if you feel the need. 3)Mixing bucket & stick, mask & gloves (safety), wood stompers, measuring cup, colorant if you want color, & Sealant if you choose-there are different products available. I have left mine out in snow in winter & haven't had any problems, it's your preference.
Different scissors for different jobs. Top one is for Foiling and bottom ones I use for Mosaic. It cuts out exact spacing from your pattern needed for the cement to get between your glass pieces. You must have at least 1/8" spacing for mosaics. I am showing a strip cut with each pair to show difference. I find these necessary, once practice makes perfect it makes preparing proper spacing of patterns so much simpler. They make a 2 in 1 scissor but not many stores carry them.
Cut out 2 templates of your mold. 1 must be an exact fit to inside of mold-should be able to lie flat. 2nd template cut 1/2" smaller on all sides. You need this allowance for the edges-DO NOT put glass to the edge of your mold. When making your piece, use the 2nd template as your working dimensions. I make my Templates out of cardboard so I can re-use over & over for each of my molds.
Using the 1st Template trace onto the Mac Tac (sticky paper) the exact shape. Cut out,DO NOT PEEL backing off yet- it should fit into bottom of your mold exactly-if overage occurs, trim to fit. Do not use pieces, you need an exact fit otherwise you will have lines in your cement from the Mac Tac. This will later be lain onto the top (good side) of your glass.
There are different things to coat your mold with-your choice (vaseline, wax, etc) I use cooking spray, like Pam, and give an even coating to complete inside of mold to help prevent sticking. Try to evenly coat as you don't want to have globs that can possibly leave marks or indents in your cement.
Prepare your glass. You need 1/8" spacing between your glass pieces, this is where the Mosaic Scissors come in handy.If you look closely, the 1st Template is on the bottom, the 2nd Template is on top of 1st with even spacing all around. Place your glass onto the 2nd Template which is your working area. Now is the time for final changes. If you go over abit dont worry, I have done as little as 1/4" spacing but do not go to edge of 1st template-you need room for the cement to cover glass edges properly.
Peel off backing from your Mac Tac and very carefully cover your glass, the good side which is to be on top of your stone. It must fit evenly over the 1st Template. This is the stressful step if you dont get it right. If it is not even, peel off again and reposition whatever pieces have moved on you. If you can have someone help you sometimes is better but watch your temper if you have to redo-lol. You need that proper fit or else it'll be off in your end product. Try to keep it tight and slowly, evenly lay it on. After you get it, take a Fig or dowel and gently rub the tape over each piece to help it stick stronger. Good Luck, I've left it alone for couple hours and gone back to try again after cooled off-lol.
Okay-you've now got to carefully turn it all over and lay into mold which has been coated. This is where I find the cardboard Templates come in handy again. I leave 1 on the bottom and use the other for the top to help support the turning over. If you checked and everything fits against the Templates you've made then it should lay perfectly in bottom of your mold. If you notice my glass is now a different color-this is the back of my glass. The good side (top) is lying face down into the mold which will be the top of my stone when done. I have used foil tape on the back of some of my pieces which brightens the color of certain glass. On certain glass this foil really brightens up your piece and you can get some interesting results with it. For the eye I drew it on with marker and covered with the foil. Glass stores sell it as BriteBack? I found same stuff at Hardware Store, much bigger roll for less money- but by different name. It only comes in silver and is used for wrapping pipes.

If you have measured how much cement you need it will now come in handy. If you are using color, now is the time to add it in, and also into each layer. Keep track of how much you use in the 1st one so you can do same for next 2 layers. Keep some of this dry mixture so you can have the same color for grouting it later. For the 1st layer, I use 4-6 cups of Mortar (depends on mold size), add about 1/4 cup water to start, mix well, add more water if needed to get a pasty texture.

Wearing rubber gloves to protect your hands, plop little piles of cement around edges to hold piece in place. Take little cement and carefully rub into all crevices, not hard as you dont want pieces to move or get lost in cement. Do the edges too. Pour remaining cement in and gently even out. I use a wood block and lightly stamp the cement to even out. As you stamp the cement, water will rise to the top-so if it's quite soupy, then you are using too much water.
For 2nd layer I use Cement Mix-it has stones in it as you can see. This is needed to give it strength-if you are using any additives do it now-myself I have found I don't need it. Watch the water here-it takes less water than the Mortar-usually for every 4 cups cement add 1/4 cup water is plenty. This layer is the bulk of your cement. Stamp it down again, it'll blend into the 1st layer. 3rd and last layer, I use same as I did for 1st layer to make bottom smooth as the top. Stamp again and even out if uneven in areas. This is your final step so make sure it's flat. If you have puddles of water, take paper towels and soak up. Give light taps or shakes to make air bubbles rise to the top. DO NOT move your stone now till dried and ready to pop out.
Different cements have different drying times. With what I use I find after 8 hrs it's time. So if you've poured in the morning, by evening it should be ready. Check that it is hard and gently pull the sides away from the stone. Turn over while supporting stone and gently pop out of mold. Peel off MacTac slowly. I use an exacto knife to clean cement off glass. If you look closely at edges of glass you will notice spacing (hole) in some areas, this is filled in with grout.
Take a small amount of Mortar, using throw away containers-add water, mix well to pasty texture. If you've used color, then use the pre-mixed that you have saved. Wearing rubber gloves to protect your skin, take a pinch and rub gently into any areas that need filling. Smoothen any rough areas, be careful not to rub too hard around glass edges as it can scratch the glass.
Wearing rubber gloves to protect your skin, take a pinch and rub gently into areas that need filling. Smooth any rough areas, be careful to not rub hard around the edges as you can scratch your glass. Check the sides of stone and if you see air holes-grout these too. Rub it in till nice and smooth. Leave sit for about an hour to harden.
I'm done-YES!!! They say it takes 28 days for cement to properly cure, and it is important for a stronger stone to keep it moist for few days. I usually pour water onto it frequently to keep moist for about 5 days. DO NOT put your stone in direct sunlight, it will dry it out too quickly, you want a slooooow dry. I lay my stones on pieces of wood so the air can circulate properly underneath. Some people seal after the curing period, I have never done mine, your choice. I live in cold snowy Ontario and maybe I've just been lucky, but I've never had a problem. Weldbond I hear is good for many things. I E-mail me if any questions.Card_Diva- lovemyglass@msn.com Post pic's please, I'd luv to see. Feel free to add ideas or tips, we are always learning.